Jordan, a name affiliated with greatness. To some, the name marks the legacy of one of the greatest basketball players of all time. To others, the name is associated with the final scenes of a Spielberg classic. While for others, the name is connected with the baptism site of the leading figure of Christianity. Regardless of association, what is clear to me, is that Jordan is one of the most amazing countries in the Middle East.
So why such a bold statement for Jordan? Simple, the trinity: Dead Sea, Petra and Wadi Rum. That’s three unique and prominent locations within a four-hour driving timeframe. Let’s start with the Dead Sea, perhaps the body of water with the most alarming name. The reference Dead highlights the near 10x level of water salinity when compared to an ocean, guaranteeing you two things: to float effortlessly in the water and to do so in peace, as there are no animal nor plant life located within the water. While there, you also can check off having visited the lowest land elevation on earth, 430.5 m (1,412 ft) below sea level, and counting. Petra, needs no introduction. Its origins stretch back to 9,000 BC, but the Petra we know today was created by the Nabataeans in 4th century BC. Brought to the masses by Indiana Jones, the genius (and beauty) of the Nabataeans is unparalleled and makes Petra an experience you’ll never forget. For those that wish to step onto a different planet, Wadi Rum has got your back. Serving as the setting of multiple films, stepping into this desert is a thing of beauty and serenity. The sandstone rocks you’ll find in Petra continue here, to provide you with what appears to be melted ice cream on red sand, that makes this desert one of most stunning and tranquil places on earth.
Besides places to see, the driving within this country is a serious plus. Directions are simple, and the roads are safe and fantastic. Add beautiful scenery to the mix, and it’s simply the best way to explore Jordan. Due to its size, you can rent a vehicle and drive from the capital to the southernmost point (Red Sea) in around four hours. Not only will self-driving allow you greater flexibility and convenience, but you’ll experience the country more intimately. It’s a win-win strategy, and the most recommended way to explore Jordan.
If the trinity is your main focus, then six days should be enough. However, there are numerous other gems including Jerash, Madaba, Wadi Mujib and even a wine tour. Taking this into consideration, you’re looking at about two weeks of travel within Jordan.
Quick Facts
Capital: Amman
Size: 88,780 km2 or 34,278 mi2
Population: 10M (2019)
Language: Arabic (English is widely spoken)
Ethnicity: 98% Arab, 1% Armenian
Religion: 95% Islam (mostly Sunni), 4% Christianity
Government: Constitutional monarchy
Independence: 1946
Currency: Jordanian dinar (JOD)
Who
Jordan is rated E for everyone. I’ve seen singles (male / female) to families (with infants) to seniors and enough accents that’ll have you second guessing nationalities all the time.
When
The best months to visit Jordan are between spring (Mar - May) and fall (Sept - Nov). Doing so will ensure you avoid the heat during the summer and the cold during the winter (it’s actually snowed in Petra). One note, if you wish to visit the Red Sea in Aqaba, the warmer months will be more comfortable; however, it’ll also make some of the other locations a bit more challenging.
Visa
If you require a visa, there’s the following: a single entry visa valid for one month for 40 JD ($56), a double entry visa valid for three months for 60 JD ($85) and a multiple entry visa valid for six months for 120 JD ($169). If you’re opting for the Jordan Pass (more on this below within Petra), the visa fees are waived, as long as you stay a minimum of three nights (four days) within country. Finally, some nationalities have the convenience of a visa on arrival; however, unfortunately others don’t. If you fall into this category, you can get a visa in less than a day by visiting a Jordan embassy or consulate. Take a moment and verify your visa needs (based on your nationality) to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
DEAD SEA (SWEIMEH)
Perhaps no sea is as intriguing as the one located 70 km (44 mi) west of Amman. In fact, the name itself is a paradox. Yes, it has extreme salinity, but stepping into this water will leave you with quite the opposite, a lively experience. Measuring roughly 50 km (31 mi) from top to bottom, the Dead Sea forms a border between Jordan and the West Bank. The depth of the water is roughly 304 m (997 ft); however, the water evaporates about 1 m (3 ft) a year, so it’s constantly changing.
This polar opposite of Mount Everest has something for everyone. Located Northeast of the sea, you’ll find a collection of hotels including the Marriott, Hilton, Mövenpick and others. Each hotel offers something different (reviews here), but note that whatever you choose, you’ll likely eat all three meals in the hotel you’ve chosen. The area is fairly isolated and there are no standalone restaurants. On the plus side, if you don’t mind walking or if you have a car, you can expand your dining choices to other hotels or even the Samarah Mall.
Most hotels have incredible, entertaining and sizeable pools, but the magic lies in the Dead Sea of course. I can’t express how incredible this seawater actually is. First off, it’s likely the closest you’ll get to feeling weightlessness, as if you were in space. You float effortlessly, and the more you try to sink yourself, the quicker you’ll pop back up. The recommended position is to lay on your back, but even before you jump in the water, make sure there are no open wounds on your body to avoid serious irritation. In the shallower water, go ahead and run your fingers through the sea and see how impressively thick and salty the water actually is. Once you’ve return to your lounger, you’ll notice the water doesn’t evaporate as norm. In fact, the water remains on you and feels more like an oily residue. Incredible stuff.
Once you’re done with the water, it’s time to bake. By this I mean there’s either a container or proper mud stations at your disposal near the shoreline, where you can meticulously spread mud on yourself, like butter on bread. After you’ve reached a satisfactory level of caking, you’ll need to lay out in the sun for some 15 mins to dry yourself out. Once complete, return back to the sea to remove the mud, and get ready, because your skin is going to feel like a new baby. It’s quite possibly the only time where applying mud on yourself and walking around caked in it is a socially acceptable behavior. Amazing.
As far as how long you should stay in the Dead Sea, I’d say a minimum of two full days and one night. But you’d be pushing it. There’s something about this water and mud that forces you to stay longer. So, my recommendation is a minimum of two nights. If you plan to combine nearby activities such as the Baptismal Site or Wadi Mujib, you may want to consider staying longer.
PETRA (WADI MUSA)
Petra is located less than 200 km (124 mi) away from the Dead Sea and roughly the same distance if you’re originating from Amman. The actual town where Petra is located is called Wadi Musa, Valley of Moses, where it’s believed the Christian prophet Moses struck a rock with his staff, sending water out to quench the thirst of the Israelites during the Exodus. If you’re coming from the Dead Sea, the drive to Wadi Musa is an experience in itself. You’ll start on the Dead Sea Highway, which is wedged between the mountains and the sea, providing you with some fantastic cliff views of the water. Shortly after leaving the sea, you’ll turn into some incredible mountains where you’ll be treated to some of the best mountain views Jordan has to offer. Reaching the summit, the temperature drops by nearly half from what you experienced in the Dead Sea, and about an hour before you reach Wadi Musa, you’ll come across the Tafila wind farm. A total of 38 (massive) turbines are spread across an area and highlights how progressive Jordan has become, with the first wind farm in the region. To put it in perspective, this turbine measures around 100 m (328 ft) in height vs I’m 178 cm (5’10”) tall; you can see exactly how ‘tall’ I measure, standing to the right of that turbine. Serious.
You’ll finally arrive to the small town of Wadi Musa, where the first item on your list is to ensure you get some proper sleep; trust me, you’ll need it (hotel reviews here). Petra can be done in a single day, but you’ll be rushing around to accomplish what you’d like to see. If you’re not constrained with time, I recommend a multi-day ticket. A multi-day ticket allows you more flexibility and a greater opportunity to experience more. Before I get into the Petra ticket cost, let me discuss the Jordan Pass. What you have here are tickets that cover Petra and more, much more. Additionally, as mentioned early, your tourist entry visa fee in country is waived with this pass, as long as you follow the requirements. Prices start at 70 JD ($99) for the Jordan Wanderer (which includes one day in Petra), 75 JD ($106) for the Jordan Explore (which includes two days in Petra) and 80 JD ($113) for the Jordan Expert (which covers three days in Petra). The passes are a great deal, considering it covers numerous attractions and your visa cost. For Petra only tickets, a one day will run you 50 JD ($71), a two day will cost 55 JD ($78) and a three day will set you back 60 JD ($85). Kids under 12 years of age are granted free access. Petra opens at 6:00 and closes at 18:00 (summer) or 16:00 (winter). Also, there’s the Petra by Night on Mon, Wed and Thurs. Tickets cost 17 JD ($24) and kids under 10 are given free admission. Petra by night starts at 20:30 and ends at 22:30, but more on this experience later.
A bit of history on Petra. The city served as the capital of the Nabataean Kingdom from 4th century BC until 106 AD, when their independence was lost due to the Roman Empire. Over the following centuries, this trading hub saw a decline in its importance as sea trading routes were discovered. To make matters worse, there was a serious earthquake that rocked the city in 363 AD, destroying many of its structures. The city was rediscovered in 1812 by a Swiss traveler, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. It’s been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1985 and was named one of the New7Wonders of the World. For me, I was introduced to Petra by Indiana Jones in the Last Crusade, and it seems I wasn’t the only one, for as you walk towards the Treasury, it’s not uncommon to hear the iconic theme song played on phones. What is clear however is the importance of the city to the Nabataean people. You simply don’t create something so beautiful and well-engineered by accident. For example, the area was prone to flash floods, so they took advantage of this situation and would funnel the water via conduits and store it in dams and cisterns for later use, pretty clever. In addition to their engineering pedigree, the Nabataeans were beautiful designers and proper tradesmen. The city became wealthy due to their strategic placement within a major trading route, and it’s this combination of wealth, design and engineering that lead to the beautiful structures we now know today such as the Treasury and the Monastery.
Before I dive into the Petra experience, I want to share a few pointers. Firstly, and perhaps the most important, arrive early. The ticket gate opens at 6:00, and if you want those beautiful shots with just yourself and the Treasury, you must arrive early. Also, the camels arrive in front of the Treasury around 7:00, which add to the photo experience. Secondly, depending on season, you may need to dress warmly. It’s actually snowed in Petra, so mornings can be quite cold and as the initial area of Petra is within a canyon, the sun won’t touch your face until much later. In addition to temps, make sure you wear comfortable shoes, as you’ll be undergoing some serious walking throughout the day. Thirdly, bring food and water and if possible, ask your hotel if they can provide you with a take away meal. There are options inside Petra, but there’s nothing quite like the convenience of a quick solution to strike down your thirst or hunger.
Siq
No Petra experience is complete without a visit to the Treasury, and fortunately, it’s one of the first sights you’ll see. Upon entering Petra, there is a declined gravel road which leads you to the Siq, one of best parts about Petra and the coolest entrance to any sight. The Siq is a narrow canyon with wall heights reaching up to 182 m (597 ft), and certain areas are only 3 m (10 ft) wide. The Siq is believed to have been naturally created by tectonic forces and later further carved out by water.
With the engineering brains of the Nabateans, a tunnel was constructed at the Siq entrance to channel water and prevent flash floods. Further in, various dams can be found which were used to house precious water. However, little can prepare you for what lies at the end of the Siq, the view to the Treasury. You can see briefly through the canyon walls and then bam, there she is, an unforgettable introduction.
Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
The Treasury is believed to have been a mausoleum for the Nabatean King Aretas IV, constructed around 1st century AD. Unfortunately, you’re unable to go inside; however, having visited the inside in 2008, you’re not missing out on much as it was simply one large rectangular room. The Treasury is carved out of sandstone, and due to its proximity to the Siq, its maintained fairly well over the last 2,000+ years. Curiously, you’ll notice the urn located on top has been damaged by no less than bullets, as it was believed to house treasure, hence the name Treasury. You’ll simply need some time to digest all that is the Treasury, including the beauty and the details in its design and how this was all carved from a single face of rock. Meaning, there was little margin for error. To the left and right of the Treasury, you can see a footpath carved in the rock, which assisted the Nabataeans during construction. There are actually three viewpoints to see the Treasury from. The first of course is at ground level, after exiting the Siq. The second is to the left where you’ll need to pay a fee to access viewpoint two. At minimum, I recommend you do this. The journey up takes over 10 mins, and it’s a mix of sketchy climbing and walking; however, there’s a guide that’ll assist you on the way up, and without question, it’s worth the effort. Just remember, slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. Once you’ve reached the top, you’ll notice there’s yet another viewpoint located across. Less people go to viewpoint three, as it’s more of a walk; however, it’s less inclined and actually has steps. The views here are as good or better than viewpoint two. Additionally, you can stop at viewpoint three while making your way to the Monastery, as it’s en route. One final recommendation, when you photograph the Treasury, ensure the sun is not directly on the temple to avoid washing out the colors. Shade is your friend here.
At this point, if you’re heading to the Monastery, you’ll have approximately 3.4 km (2.1 mi) of walking, of which half that distance is a serious stairway up. Dependent on your speed, budget about an hour from the Treasury to the Monastery. The Street of Facades commences shortly after passing the Treasury. Here, you’ll run into several tombs, flanked on both sides. Further on the left, you’ll find an awesome looking theater said have seated at least 6,000 people. Its design follows true to a Roman style theater; however, it was constructed under King Aretas IV within the 1st century. What makes this theater incredible though is how the seating is carved directly from the rock. Across the theater, there are the Royal tombs which have the appearance of melted ice cream. With time and the elements, the sandstone has not maintained very well leading to some interesting appearances. In fact, some of the most beautiful rocks can be seen here with some striking (and beautiful) color variations. It’s no coincidence how Petra is nicknamed the Rose City. If you want to venture to viewpoint three of the Treasury, you’ll need to start climbing and wrap around behind the melted ice cream (or tombs).
Petra at this moment has opened up, and there’s a rather straight forward road referred to as the Colonnaded Street, built within the 2nd century AD. The Romans constructed their road over the road built by the Nabataeans, and it’s believed this area was a major commercial hub, selling trade goods such as frankincense, myrrh, semi-precious stones, textiles and spices. Unfortunately, little can be seen today as the area is in ruins, due to the earthquake of 363 AD. Towards the end of this street, you’ll find the Temple of Winged Lions and the Qasr al-Bint Temple Complex. These two buildings were constructed within the 1st century AD and were considered to be some of the most venerable temples of Petra. Today, the temples have not fared very well and are in ruins due to time and earthquakes.
Monastery (El Deir)
Once the street ends, the path to the Monastery begins. While the Monastery receives less attention to the Treasury, ya gotta see it. My recommendation is to arrive later in the afternoon to ensure the sun is shining fully on the Monastery. The Monastery is perhaps less ornate and colorful than the Treasury; however, it makes up for it in size, measuring 47 m (154 ft) in width and 51 m (167 ft) in height, larger than the Treasury. Additionally, the Monastery is more exposed than the Treasury, but it’s maintained extremely well (unlike the Royal Tombs), which is quite impressive. But let me go back to the path or stairway to reach the Monastery. You’re looking at about 1.5 km (0.9 mi) of steps, which will take roughly 30 mins. The climb is fairly serious but fortunately, there are pit stops along the way allowing you to take a break or have some refreshments. Once you’ve reached the top, you’ll have the awesome looking Monastery to the right, and a restaurant to the left where you can relax, eat /drink and even smoke shisha. As the name hints, the Monastery was believed to have been used for religious meetings and rituals, constructed within the 2nd century AD. Similar to the Treasury, there are a few viewpoints to see and photograph the Monastery from. There is the ground level viewpoint (in front of the Monastery), the secondary viewpoint (two sizeable boulders behind the restaurant) and the third viewpoint is located much further back. My recommendation is to stick to the ground level viewpoint, and those along the restaurant and secondary viewpoint boulders. One of the biggest advantages of the Monastery is that as it’s less visited than the Treasury, so, getting a great view or taking an exceptional shot is much simpler and can be done at any time of the day.
Petra by Night
Now, for the controversial Petra by Night. First off, I recommend you check it out. Trips are often once in a lifetime, so if you’re lucky enough to visit Petra on Mon, Wed and Thu, just do it. With that said, you may have noticed that tickets for the evening are a bit on the pricey side, as your only given two hours of admission, rather than a full day. But money aside, there’s also some other frustrations. Firstly, it’s a mad dash to arrive to the Treasury first and have the opportunity to take the best possible shots. Once the dust has settled, yellow cards will constantly be given out for folks who can’t comprehend the “no flash photography” rule. Regardless of how many times the rule is repeated, the flashes continue. My recommendation is to perhaps leave the camera behind and simply enjoy the experience for what it is — an opportunity to walk the Siq at and see the Treasury at night, with 1,500 candles. Perhaps the experience is not too far off from what it must’ve been like 2,000+ years ago. If you wish to brave the photographical frustration, make sure to take a tripod; it’s a necessity. Secondly, make your way to the right when you arrive at the Treasury, where most photographers will be positioning themselves. When the experience finally starts, it’s quite fantastic. A musician will start to play some traditional music, and tea will be served. However, the ending is quite a letdown, with an unnecessary light show on the Treasury, followed by the gift shop turning on its lights, rendering any pictures at this time worthless. Needless to say, your best opportunity to capture the Treasury at night is to arrive early, take pics before the flood of people and certainly before the light show. Regardless of opinion, what cannot be argued is the beauty of the Treasury and Siq at night; it’s incredible.
WADI RUM
300 days. That’s how long it’d take to travel to Mars. Or, in less than 115 km (72 mi) from Petra, you can reach Wadi Rum, where you’re forgiven to believe you’ve reached the Red Planet. Brought to the masses with Lawrence of Arabia and more recently in Martian, Wadi Rum is truly an out of this world experience. And film isn’t the only blessings this area has received, for it was named as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2011. Similar to the Dead Sea and Petra, what you’ll find here is uniqueness and exceptional beauty, consider it a desert on steroids. Imagine, endless red sand covered with the occasional mountain of rocks, with little to no footprint of humanity. For the most part, it’s just you and mother nature. Besides the striking red sand, the sandstone rocks will stand out as they appear more like melted ice cream, weathered over millennia. One of the other striking features is how your life simply slows down and you get to enjoy the simple things in life such as conversations, food and tea. The isolation is a welcome break to modern life and add the fact that you’re experiencing a living work of art, and you’ll agree that Wadi Rum is simply out of control.
As for how long you should spend in Wadi Rum, the bare minimum is one night. My recommendation is to stay for a total of two - three nights. This allows you digest the awesomeness of Wadi Rum without being rushed, and you’ll get to see more goodness. You’ll either meet your guide at the Wadi Rum Visitor Center, or you’ll travel 10 mins passed the visitor center and meet them within the Wadi Rum Village. And your guide will be the most important decision you’ll need to make before you visit Wadi Rum. I’ve chosen Bedouin Roads, which comes heavily recommended. I’ve experienced them in 2008 and again more recently, and they’re solid (more on them later). For those craving luxury, the Sun City Camp may be an option; however, to me, nothing beats the team of Bedouin Roads headed by Attayak Ali; he’s a living legend of Wadi Rum.
Burdah Rock Bridge
There are many locations and experiences to be had within Wadi Rum and frankly, they’re all fantastic. However, I’ll start with one of the best experiences and that is the Burdah rock bridge, located on Jebel Burdah. But before I begin, I’d like to stress that more than any other adventure in Wadi Rum, this is a test of your physicality and boldness. If you’re not comfortable with climbing or hiking for an extended period of time or have a fear of heights, this experience may be best avoided. The Burdah rock bridge is indeed the most iconic and scenic rock bridge in Wadi Rum. By scenic I refer to how the bridge can be viewed from afar, like a cherry on a cake, and when you’re finally climbing and summiting the bridge, you’ll have the most ridiculous surrounding views. It’s said to be one of the highest natural arches in the world, spanning some 35 m (115 ft) high and 300 m (984 ft) high from the ground up. In addition to harnessing your inner strength, you’ll need to dress comfortably as you’ll literally be hugging onto rock and ropes as you both ascend and descend. Once you’ve summited, the most difficult part lies in front of you, walking over the bridge with some serious wind. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll be fine and feel more comfortable; however, it’s a bit uneasy at first. Once completed, your guide will take you down an easier but even crazier way then what you ascended. Here you’ll use your backside and arms as you spider your way down a crack. Overall, the experience will take about three - four hours to complete. To me, it was the most fun and rewarding experience in Wadi Rum, and one I can strongly recommend you experience.
Um Fruth Rock Bridge
If time is a concern, or you prefer a bridge that’s more accessible, then the Um Fruth rock bridge is what you’re looking for. Unlike the Burdah rock bridge, you can park and immediately start your climb up with no issues. It’s quicker (about 30 mins), easier and safer than Burdah. The only downside, it’s very popular with tourists. While the 15 m (49 ft) Um Fruth bridge lacks the awesomeness of Burdah, it’s a nice alternative if time is limited.
Jebel Al Hash (Jebel Khash)
Unlike most deserts around the world, what sets Wadi Rum apart are the mountains located throughout the area. Of the ones you can hike and gain a viewpoint from, Jebel Al Hash is considered one of the best, and it’s the one I can recommend you experience if you have the time. It’s not difficult to access, just an inclined walk, but the views are spectacular.
Petroglyphs / Rock Carvings
Not all in Wadi Rum is produced by mother nature. Petroglyphs can be found around the world and fortunately, they’re here in Wadi Rum as well. It’s believed that 25,000 petroglyphs and 20,000 inscriptions are located within Wadi Rum, with some even dating back 12,000 years ago. The carvings consist of both writing and animals and are believed to be the work of the Nabataean and the Thamud civilization. The writing itself is written in either the Islamic or Thamudic languages. Khazali Canyon is one of the more famous, albeit touristy, spots to find these incredible carvings. Additionally, the Anfishiyyeh inscriptions consisting of a herd of camels can be found in the open. You can view these inscriptions as a pit stop between sites. It’s actually believed the drawings were created by people doing something similar, traveling in a camel caravan from Syria to Saudi Arabia and likely taking a break.
Finally, there’s an experience in Wadi Rum that’s arguably considered one of the best, a hot air balloon ride. The operators, Rum Balloon, were extremely courteous when I was given the unfortunate news of a no go, due to the weather. But as you experience Wadi Rum, you can only imagine the perspective of the area from the sky; it must be surreal. In fact, the pics alone on their website are ridiculous. If the weather is favorable, and you want to elevate your Wadi Rum experience (no pun intended), check out Rum Balloon.
There are loads more experiences in Wadi Rum. From viewing natural fresh water springs to sleeping under the stars at night. As I mentioned before, having a proper guide is of utmost importance, as they’ll be ferrying you around, guiding you and even cooking incredible food and delicious tea. Check out my review here for your best choice of a guide while exploring Wadi Rum.
JERASH
After experiencing the trinity, Jordan isn’t done yet. About 50 km (31 mi) north of Amman lies ‘The greatest Roman ruins outside of Italy.’ This statement resonated with me and honestly, it’s spot on; Jerash is unreal. In case the aforementioned title wasn’t sufficient, it also dons the title the ‘Pompeii of the Middle East,’ minus the volcanic eruption of course. Human fossils date the area back to 7,500 BC, and the name Jerash comes from Gerasa, founded by no other than the Greek legend, Alexander the Great, in 4th century BC. However, the city reached its pinnacle with with the conquest from the Roman Empire in 63 BC further leading to a height of prosperity within the 1st century AD. No good things can last forever, and its decline occurred around 614 AD, after the Persian invasion and earthquakes.
If you don’t have the Jordan Pass, the entrance fee is 12 JD ($17), and the opening hours are 7:30 - 19:00 (summer) and 8:00 - 17:00 (winter). Jerash can be done in less than a day, and many choose day tours from Amman; however, there’s something special about arriving early in the morning or taking advantage of the sunset. If possible, I recommend you stay in Jerash for one night. At the time of writing, the hotel choices were fairly mediocre. Check out my review here on this excellent Airbnb option. They also operate a restaurant across from the entrance, for added convenience.
Arch of Hadrian
The experience starts with the Arch of Hadrian, the first ruin you’ll encounter. Measuring 21 m (69 ft), the gateway was completed in 130 AD to honor the visiting Roman Emperor, Hadrian. Passing through the arch, you’ll find the hippodrome to your left. This hippodrome measures 244 m by 50 m (800 ft by 164 ft) and is believed to have been constructed between the 1st and 3rd century AD. Holding up to 15,000 spectators. hippodromes served as stadiums back in the Roman era, and would host chariot races and athletic competitions. Today, mock events are held on a daily basis for those that may be interested.
Oval Forum / Plaza
Next on the list is one of the highlights of Jerash, the Oval Forum. Measuring 90 m (295 ft) long and 80 m (263 ft) wide, this forum was serious, serving as a marketplace and setting for various social and political events. The forum was constructed in 1st century BC and has an impressive 56 columns. I remember walking though the forum and thought, how cool would it be to experience Andrea Bocelli, right here. Well, 3,500 people had that exact experience in late 2017, in the middle of the Oval Forum. Incredible. For those looking for the best pics, you’ll want to position your camera up on top, where you’ll find the Temple of Zeus, built in 162 AD. Zeus had a pretty awesome vantage point of the forum (the best view in Jerash), and it’s where you want to set up your camera. Follow the early morning or late afternoon rule of photography, and you’ll land some solid photos of this impressive looking forum.
South Theater
After the Oval Forum, take a left and head to the South Theater. Romans loved theater, and this theater (one of two) could hold up to 5,000 spectators and was built between 86 - 91 AD. You’ve got to wonder what fantastic shows must have happened back then, and if the acoustics held up back. Climbing to the top, you get to take in the awesomeness of the stadium and get a bonus, a nice view of Jerash. Now, I’ve always associated bagpipes with Scotland and when I heard them being played later in this theater, I didn’t quite understand why. Little did I know, that some of the earliest knowledge of bagpipes dates back to 1,000 BC and were discovered in the Middle East. Additionally, Greeks and Romans were reputed for playing the bag pipes so needless to say, the sound plays quite well in the South Theater of Jerash.
Cardo Maximus
Returning back to the forum, you likely may have seen a straight road heading the opposite direction of the entrance of Jerash. Welcome to the cardo maximus or main street. First off, why don’t se designate main roads with such a name? In any case, the cardo maximus serves as the main artery from Jerash, connecting the oval forum to the North Gate. This 800 m (328 ft) road was one of my favorite parts about Jerash. The attention to detail to the road, columns and buildings are quite impressive. It’s believed up to 500 columns once lined the road, and if you stop and check out a single column in more detail, in particular the capital or top portion, you can see exactly how intricate and beautiful they actually are. The best approach is to perform a circle, start from the Oval Forum, head north on the cardo maximus and circle around and return back to the Oval Forum. Highlights include the Nymphaeum, a Roman fountain dedicated to water nymphs, constructed in 191 AD. It’s believed to have been decked out with elaborate decoration and marble. But above all, take your time exploring and analyzing all the excellence that is Jerash. Perhaps Jordan doesn’t come first on the mind when you think of Roman ruins but this place is as close as Italia ruins as you can get, without stepping onto the boot.
JORDAN RIVER VINEYARD / WINERY TOUR
Just when you think you’ve heard all that you can experience in Jordan, now a wine tour is available. That’s right, no different than any other wine region in the world, you can take a wine tour with one of the best wine producers in country, Jordan River (JR). If interested, you start your planning by looking here and seeing if a tour date coincides with your trip. If it does, then go ahead and book a spot, tickets cost around $85 - $100 per person (dependent on month). It’ll be one of the best decisions you’ll make for your trip.
The meeting point starts at the JR Wine Experience in Amman, within the fantastic looking shopping center, The Boulevard. This wine bar is said to be the first of its kind in the region, where numerous JR wine varieties and vintages are available. To me, it was all surreal as Jordan may not be associated with wine, but on the contrary, there’s wine making history within Jordan dating back to 30 BC, when the Nabataeans produced wine within Petra. Today, the JR Winery follows those early traditions and produces over 500,000 bottles a year, in an impressive 45 varietals. When the tour starts, you’re quickly introduced to the informative guides (including a Haddad family member) which will speak about the highlights of Amman as you proceed to exit the city. About 1.5 hr later, you reach the vineyard located on the Mafraq plateau. You can read more about the experience here; however, what I can’t overstate is how enjoyable and unique this experience was. I mean, drinking wine tapped directly from a barrel while dining in a wine cellar? Craziness. Brilliant wine with exceptional folks. One of the most enjoyable experiences you can have in Jordan.
MADABA
Madaba is a small city located 22 km (14 mi) west from the Queen Alia International Airport of Amman. The city has history, stretching back to the Bronze Age (around 3,000 BC). Today, the predominant religion is Islam; however, the history of Madaba spans centuries where Christianity was the dominant religion and churches today remains as relics to this era.
To me, Madaba serves two purposes. For one, it’s a cool little city that’s fun to explore and filled with history. Various mosaics have been discovered, including the famed mosaic map of Jerusalem and the Holy Land, dating back to the 6th century. In addition to mosaics, the city has one of the finest and most enjoyable restaurants in Jordan, Haret Jdoudna (see review here). If you plan to visit, I recommend you come either during a Thu or Fri night or during a holiday. To see this restaurant, unrestrained, is a thing of beauty.
Secondly, Madaba serves as an exceptional geographical hub. It’s closer to the Queen Alia Airport than Amman, and its hotels are very economical (see review here). Additionally, you can access Mount Nebo, the Baptism Site, Wadi Mujib or any other nearby location relatively easy, and as mentioned, at a fraction of the cost of pricier options within the Dead Sea area.
Speaking of Mount Nebo, less than 10 km ( 6km) away heading northwest of Madaba, lies a significant place for Christians and the pope, as he visited in 2000 and 2009. Mount Nebo is where it’s believed Moses, one of the most important prophets of Christianity, both viewed the promised land and died, at the young age of 120. Prior to the exodus of the Israelites from Egypt, Moses was promised a visual of the promised land, but could not enter. On a clear day, you can actually view Jerusalem. Yet another significant experience to be had for Christians within Jordan.
WADI MUJIB
Wadi Muijib is the gift you never knew you wanted. If you’re driving to Petra from the Dead Sea, you’ll pass through a bridge over Wadi Mujib, 28 km (17 mi) from the collection of Dead Sea hotels. Understandably, the trinity receives most of the (Jordan) attention; however, this is likely one of the most physically fun activities you can experience in country. What you have here is a small river that has eroded rock over time, forming an incredibly awesome narrow canyon. On one end of the canyon, you have the Dead Sea, and upstream on the other, there’s a waterfall. In between, you have the Siq Trail which will have you walking, swimming and pulling yourself through water. Additionally, you’ll climb over rocks and occasionally with the support of rope and steps. The experience is wild, and for safety, guides are located on the more challenging spots. But there’s more to this adrenaline rush. The scenery is just beautiful. Imagine: nestled in between tall canyon walls with colorful rocks and clear water as far as the eye can see, with occasional white-water rapids. It’s simply a playground for adults. Once you reach the halfway point, you’re rewarded with a fantastic waterfall. The entrance fee is JOD 21 ($30), and there are toilets at the entrance. Operating hours are from 8:00 - 15:00, and it’s open from 01 Apr - 31 Oct; however, do contact them before just to ensure the experience is open. There are also additional guided trails such as the Canyon, Malaqui and Ibex Trail. Wadi Mujib is one of the more underrated and sensational experiences in Jordan.
BAPTISM SITE
Located 37 km (23 mi) northwest from Madaba, lies one of the most important sites of Christianity, the baptism site of Jesus. The baptism is one of 5 major milestones of the life of Jesus, and it’s been visited by several dignitaries and popes, including Pope Francis. Additionally, UNESCO blessed it as a world heritage site in 2015. Jesus is the central figure of Christianity and was baptized on the Jordan river by John the Baptist, and today, you can visit the exact spot where this Christian rite occurred.
After meeting the tour guide, you’re taken on a bus where you’ll pass by Elijah Hill, where the famed prophet Elijah ascended into heaven around 9th century BC. As the Baptism site is so important to Christians, several churches have been built within the area including those of Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Russian Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Egyptian Coptic and Lutheran religions. One of the main reasons the churches are located here is to provide the opportunity to be baptized near where Jesus was baptized some 2,000+ years ago, which is pretty cool. The bus eventually stops at the main site, the baptismal site of Jesus. The site has changed significantly over the years, due to both nature and human intervention, and the actual Jordan river is no longer crossing over the spot where Jesus is believed to have been baptized. For any Christian or historian, the site is moving, and the numerous temples discovered in the area further support that this spot is where Jesus was actually baptized.
Once completed, you can walk to the actual Jordan river. As mentioned before, the river’s size and path has changed over the years, both for natural and human reasons. For example, a dam was constructed about half a century ago, dramatically reducing the width of the river to what it is today. You’ll also notice the river serves as a border, with Jordan on one side and the West Bank on the other. Baptisms still occur on the river today, which is amazing. The site is open from 8:30 - 18:00 (Apr - Oct) and 8:30 - 16:00 (Nov - Apr), and the cost of admission is 12 JD ($17). For any Christian or historian, it’s a must visit. I recommend you arrive as early as possible to avoid the heat, crowd and to take nicer pictures.
