Side trips are a beautiful thing. They take what’s already an amazing trip and elevate it to new heights, rocking your memory for years to come. As a full disclosure, this will unfortunately not be a full detail of Zimbabwe / Zambia; however, after experiencing both locations, I’m left with the same feeling you get when you watch a brilliant movie trailer; I want to experience more, much more.
Victoria Falls is what most people associate these two countries with and rightly so. It’s one of the most incredible waterfalls you can experience. The Victoria Falls Park allows you to get up close and personal to the falls, with often no restriction. For those wanting a bird’s eye view, helicopter aerial tours are even offered. But that’s not all. How about livin’ on the edge and sitting in the most sensational natural infinity pool in the world, Devil’s Pool, while siting on a waterfall summit of 108 m (354 ft) high. If you want more natural beauty, then look no further then whitewater rafting on the Zambezi River, considered one of the wildest rivers to raft in. Whether you want adventure or simply wish to stare at the natural and powerful beauty that is Victoria Falls, it’s no question that this is one of the best waterfalls in the world.
Outside the falls, these two countries have more to offer. Ever wanted to feed a proper African elephant? Or how about wine and dine like a champ while riding on a 1920’s steam train over the Victoria Falls bridge? What’s assured is that between the experiences, food and people, this side trip will be one of the best you’ve taken in your life.
As for how much time you’ll need, I’d recommend at least four days. However, if you really want to experience the Zambezi River at its max, I’d suggest up to seven days, more on this later.
Zimbabwe Quick Facts
Capital: Harare
Size: 386,850 km2 or 149,364 mi2
Population: 17M (2019)
Language: English, Shona, Ndebele
Ethnicity: 70% Shona, 20% Ndebele
Religion: 84% Christianity
Government: Unitary Presidential Monarchy
Independence: 1980
Currency: US Dollar (USD), South African Rand (ZAR)
Zambia Quick Facts
Capital: Lusaka
Size: 743,390 km2 or 287,024 mi2
Population: 18M (2019)
Language: English, Nyanja, Bemba
Ethnicity: 20% Bemba, 14% Tonga, 10%: Lozi, Ngoni, Lunda, Luvale, Kaonde
Religion: 96% Christianity
Government: Presidential Representative Democratic Republic
Independence: 1964
Currency: Zambia Kwacha (ZMW)
Who
Both Zimbabwe and Zambia is rated E for everyone. This includes singles (male or female) to families (with infants) to seniors. However, certain activities are best suited for adolescents or older including whitewater rafting or the daring Devil’s Pool.
When
This is a tough one. There are two recommended time periods and each come with their own pros and cons. First, there’s the low water level period of Victoria Falls in which the Devil’s Pool is opened (Aug - Jan), and whitewater rafting on the Zambezi River is at its prime (Aug - Dec). Taking both of these activities into consideration, the months of Oct - Nov are considered the best to visit. Secondly, there’s the transitional period of Victoria Falls, Jul - Sep. This is when the falls go from its full throttle rain jacket goggle days, to a time of greater visibility providing the opportunity to see the falls at nearly its full power. However, your opportunity to experience Devil’s Pool or whitewater rafting may suffer or not be available. The choice is yours, and it simply boils down to what you’re after and when you can visit.
Visa
If you require a visa, your best solution will be the Kaza UniVisa. This visa on arrival costs $50 and allows exit and re-entry into both Zimbabwe and Zambia for up to 30 days, stress free.
Visa alternatives for Zimbabwe include: a single entry visa for $30, a double entry visa for $45 and a multiple entry visa for $55. For those nationalities requiring a visa before arrival, click here; it takes on average 2 business days to process and receive. This online service is solely for single and double entry visas, and payment for the visa will be made on arrival. Visas are valid up to three months from the date of issue and are valid for 30 days after activation. Extensions can be made upon request at the immigration office.
Visa alternatives for Zambia include: a single entry visa for $50, a double entry visa for $80 and a multiple entry visa for $80. Visas are valid for 90 days from date of issue. In select areas, there’s a visa called the day tripper for $20, allowing you visitation for 24 hr (applicable only within Victoria Falls and Kazungula border controls). Finally, there’s a transit visa for $50, for any wishing to transit through the country within a period of seven days. For those nationalities requiring a visa before arrival, click here. You’ll need to complete the application and bring the necessary paperwork with you. Once you’ve arrived to the airport, present the documentation and make the necessary payment to the immigration officials.
Take a moment and verify your visa needs (based on your nationality) to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
ZIMBABWE
Earliest archaeological findings date human settlements back to 100,000 years ago. The first known people to colonize Zimbabwe were the Sans people, and later, a group known as the Bantu settled down about 2,000 years ago. Fast forward to 1890, and the country became a British colony, until 1965. The country has had quite a history in its name to include Southern Rhodesia (1898), Rhodesia (1965), Zimbabwe Rhodesia (1979) and finally Zimbabwe (1980), when it reached international independence. Today, Zimbabwe has no less then 16 official languages, clear showing its unique and diverse history.
Zimbabwe has also seen economic instability with its currency. Issues started in the 1990’s but reached hyperinflation in 2008, when inflation peaked around 180 billion percent; a percentage that’s difficult to comprehend. Even though those days are over, the local currency has no value today and the USD and ZAR are king. You’ll want to ensure you bring the money you’ll need (ideally in USD), as finding a working ATM within Victoria Falls is nearly impossible; the nearest working ATM is within Zambia. However, Zimbabwe has risen from its past and offers an experience within Victoria Falls that is unparalleled and unforgettably. Add the fact that locals are a pleasure to interact with, food is incredible and animal sightings are a high possibility, and this place is simply golden.
One of the first questions you’ll need to answer before arriving into the area is whether to base yourself in either Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) or Livingstone (Zambia). To me, Victoria Falls is the best choice, for the following reasons. First, the town of Victoria Falls is less than 1 km (0.6 mi) from the actual falls. This is huge. It means you can walk to the falls with no problem, and if you time your visit shortly after sunrise, you’ll likely see wild elephants along the way, which is unreal. Second, one of the greatest perks about being in Victoria Falls is simply hearing the constant roar of the falls. It makes walking around town a beautiful thing, and even during the day, you’ll see a curtain of mist rise up from the falls (called cataractagenitus). Amazing. Third, furry friends such as deer, warthogs and monkeys scan the perimeter of the falls, providing you with distant emotional support. Now, for the coup de grâce, there are a total of 16 viewpoints in Victoria Falls. Not only are there more viewpoints than those in Zambia, but in my opinion, the visuals and experiences are simply better. The viewpoints vary from regulated and quiet, to thunderous and rainy, to unregulated and unforgettable.
VICTORIA FALLS
Mosi-oa-Tunya, “The Smoke that Thunders”. This is the most awesome name for a waterfall, coined by the Lozi people who still live in the area today. However, the name we now know today, Victoria Falls, originated from David Livingstone, a Scottish Christian missionary who rediscovered the falls back in the 1850’s. He’s believed to be the first European to see the falls and named them after the Queen of the UK, Victoria. Today Victoria Falls is recognized as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, and titled as one of the world’s largest, due to its sheet of falling water measuring 1,708 m (5,064 ft) wide and 108 m (354 ft) high, twice the height of Niagara’s Falls. If this isn’t impressive enough, the mist an be seen 20 km (12 mi) away, and its symphonic roar can be heard up to 40 km (25 mi) away. Serious. Oh and UNESCO’s blessing it as well, as a World Heritage Site in 1989.
Hotel
If you’ve chosen Victoria Falls as your base and are flying in, you’ll land at Victoria Falls Airport (VFA) which is less than 21 km (13 mi) from town; a taxi can easily connect you between the two locations. The next decision you’ll need to make is where to stay, and there are two categories: simple and out of control. If time is limited, your best bet will be simple, and the best choice is the N1 Hotel - Victoria Falls. This hotel is simple and economical and has everything you’ll need including a clean room, decent bed, warm showers and electrical plugs. But the best selling point is its location. You’re 1 km (0.6 mi) from the Victoria Falls Park and less than 200 m (656 ft) from The Three Monkeys, more on this later. As for luxury, there are two categories, boutique and classic. On the boutique end, there’s the andBeyond (love this brand) Old Drift Lodge, Elephant Camp and Victoria Falls River Lodge. These three places look like surreal candy that you just want to eat. If you’re to jump into historical luxury, then The Victoria Falls Hotel is your best choice. This place is out of control. The hotel was constructed by the British in 1904 (one of the oldest in Africa) and supported the construction of the Victoria Falls bridge which was the result of the “from Cape to Cairo” dream, an objective to connect South Africa to Egypt via railway. Over the years, the hotel has entertained royal family members and hosted political meetings. Even if you don’t stay here, I urge you to visit, it’s a sight to behold. You can eat a fantastic breakfast and see the bridge from your table or try one of the most incredible dinners you’ve had within The Livingstone Room. This formal dinner includes ostrich carpaccio with organic salad, scallops with pork belly apple and parsnip puree, beef fillet with butternut gratin and some flaming crepes that are out of this world and prepared right in front of you. A world class meal accompanied with a lovely pianist.
Restaurant
If you love beef or game, then you’ll be in heaven in Victoria Falls. Let’s start from the top with the classiest choice, The Livingstone Room. Located within the Victoria Falls Hotel, this places oozes excellence. The food is incredible, and the service is first class. My dinner included ostrich carpaccio with organic salad, scallops with pork belly apple and parsnip puree, beef fillet with butternut gratin and some flaming crepes that are out of this world and prepared right in front of you. If that wasn’t enough, you dine with the soundtrack of a lovely pianist. A world class meal in a beautiful historical setting. Unbelievable.
If you’re craving for something more laid back, then look no further than The Three Monkeys. Centrally located, it’ll fit any lunch, dinner or late night need. Sporting a lively atmosphere and delicious food; I went for the skewer (or Trio Espetada) of Impala, Beef and Kudu, but there are loads of other options such as burgers and even vegetarian dishes. The restaurant is covered under a Bedouin tent roof, and you’ll find tables underneath and outside. Water fans are provided for cooling just in case it gets too warm. Located on the Livingstone Way road and not far from the falls; this will be one of your greatest dining and social option within town.
If you want the craziest view you’ve ever seen from a café, or wish to grab some breakfast, lunch or coffee, you’ll want to visit the Lookout Café. Nestled on a clifftop edge from the Zambezi River, 120 m (394 ft) up, you’ll have the most incredible view of the Batoka Gorge. In addition, you can view the Victoria Falls bridge from afar. Earlier sittings will grant you a view of rafters passing by and even occasional swimming crocodiles. Incredible. The café is located less than 500 m (1,640 ft) from the Victoria Falls Park entrance. This view and experience is unforgettable, and one of the best views from a café.
Victoria Falls Park
Now, to the main show, Victoria Falls. You’ve heard the thunder. You’ve seen the mist. Now comes the fun part. The park opens from 6:00 - 18:00 (Sept to May) and 6:30 - 18:00 (May to Sept), and tickets cost $30 to enter. What’s key is to arrive during the golden hours (sunrise or sunset) to see the falls in the best light and capture the best possible photos. You’ll want to dress comfortable too, considering the ‘rain’ from the waterfall and the near 2.7 kms (1.7 mi) you’ll be walking within the park. As mentioned earlier, there are a total of 16 viewpoints with varying personalities, and the chance encounters of bushbuck (deer), warthogs and monkeys. Oh, and the birds here, yeah, they’re out of control too, beautiful even. Once you’ve finally entered the park, veer left until you reach the Livingstone Statue. David Livingstone is considered a legend in this region, and Zambia even named its nearest city, Livingstone. Across from the statue you’ll find an isolated, yet beautiful, fall called Devil’s Cataract. Backtracking slightly but keeping the falls to your left and continuing forward, you’ll find the Main Falls (viewpoints 7 - 9), and the wettest part of the park. The entire park is considered a rainforest; however, here you’ll find a constant ‘rain’ even with blue skies, as mist from the waterfall is relentless, and awesome. Visibility may suffer in this area, but it’s certainly a unique place. Proceeding onwards, you’ll come to viewpoints 10 - 12 which offer a calmer view of the Main Falls and an awesome view of the Livingstone Island, believed to be where David Livingstone stood and saw the falls for the first time. This island also borders Devil’s Pool (more on that later). At this point, if you’re visiting during the low water level season, the water from both Horseshoe Falls and Rainbow Falls, of Zambia, may be limited to non-existent. Finally, you’ll reach the last two viewpoints, 15 and 16. Viewpoint 15, called Danger Point, is the most wild. There’s nothing to hold you back from the 108 m (354 ft) drop-off, which is unbelievably stunning. Viewpoint 16 gives you an exceptional visual of the 114 year old Victoria Falls bridge. The bridge was completed in 1905 and spans 198 m (354 ft) in length and is over 128 m (420 ft) in height and connects Zimbabwe to Zambia. Today, the bridge serves trains, vehicles, pedestrians and serves as a platform for adventure seekers including bungee jumpers. The bridge was the brainchild of Cecil Rhodes, a British businessman who developed the bridge to fulfill his dream to connect the Cape (South Africa) to Cairo (Egypt) via railway. Victoria Falls is undeniably one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world. It’s a bucket list item and one worthy to be listed as a Seven Natural Wonders of the World.
”Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by Angels in Their Flight.” Words coined by David Livingstone and fortunately today, you can do just that. Helicopter rides over the falls are offered in either 13 min or 25 min options, and trips cost either $165 or $300, respectively, with a minimum of 2 people. The leader in helicopter rides is Shearwater Victoria Falls. If you happen to be visiting when the falls are at full throttle or transitioning, this experience must be slotted on the to do list. However, if you’re here when the water is at low level, you may want to consider other activities such as whitewater rafting or Devil’s Pool.
Zambezi Whitewater Rafting
So you’ve planned to see the falls from the ground and maybe the air, but have have you thought about experiencing the actual river? When you search for the top locations to experience whitewater rafting around the world, you’ll generally see the Zambezi River listed and frankly, it’s a crime if you’re here during the low water level season (Aug - Dec) and not experience it. Rapids are broken down to Classes, from I - VI. Each Class is associated with a difficulty level, with Classes V and VI being the most extreme. The Zambezi River has one of the highest concentrations of Class V rapids. The low water is critical and will allow you to experience more rapids, at their greatest intensity. As for guides, Shockwave Adventures have been operating since 2001 and are solid. In fact, I was super impressed by their attention to safety, both before and during the experience. Our guide was Philani Moyo (or MD), and this guy is a Zambezi River veteran and has been rafting since 1995, and he’s guided rivers from all over the world including the mighty Colorado River. But what impressed me the most about MD was his charm and humor; he’ll have you laughing from start to finish. Safety is paramount and on the more challenging rapids, you’ll have both kayakers and spotters (on land) ready to throw a rope or do what’s necessary should someone fall out. If you opt for a full day ($140), you’ll be collected from your hotel at 7:30 and returned back around 15:00. You’ll start at the Boiling Point which is near the base of Victoria Falls, offering you breathtaking views from the ground up. Shortly thereafter, you’ll pass under the Victoria Falls Bridge, and that’s when the fun starts. You’ll experience rapids with colorful names such as the Wall (1), the Bridge (2&3), Morning Glory (4), Stairway to Heaven (5), the Devil’s Toilet Bowl (6), Gullivers Travels (7), the Muncher (8), Commercial Suicide (9), the Gnashing Jaws (10), Overland Truck Eater (11), the Three Sisters (12), the Mother (13), the Narrows (14), the Washing Machine (15), the Terminator (16), Double Trouble (17), Oblivion (18) and Surprise Surprise (19); rapids 20 - 23 are unnamed. Outside of the rapids, you’ll stop about halfway for lunch and take pictures at the Commercial Suicide (9), as it’s declared too dangerous to ride and graded Class VI. Once the show is over, you’ll hike quite an incline and return to ground level where you’re rewarded with beer, as all rewards should be. One element that came heavily recommended to me was pulling a two night rafting trip down the Zambezi River to take down the Ghost Rider, the biggest and baddest rapid, with three Class V waves of awesomeness. If you have the time, do it. Take the opportunity to experience one of the best whitewater rafting adventures the world has to offer. Words can’t describe how amazing and ‘once in a lifetime’ this experience truly is.
ZAMBIA
The first human fossils of Africa were actually discovered in Kabwe, Zambia, by a Swiss miner in 1921. This fossil dated back to around 200,000 years ago. However, it was the hunter-gatherers known as Khoisans which are responsible for settling into Zambia. Later, waves of Bantu speaking immigrants would arrive in around the 12th century. Arab and Portuguese traders would arrive at the turn of the eighteenth century, and of course, the legendary David Livingstone arrived in 1851. In 1911, Northern Rhodesia was formed which included Zambia, and Zambia would finally gain its independence in 1964. Zambia is actually named after the Zambezi River and even named its nearest city to the falls, Livingstone, after David Livingstone.
If you’ve chosen Livingstone as your base and are flying in, you'll likely land at the Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport (LVI), in the outskirts of Livingstone. The airport is only 6 km (4 mi) from the city and is closer than VFA to Victoria Falls; however, Livingstone is about 10 km (6 mi) from the actual falls, rather then walking distance.
LIVINGSTONE
If you decided to base yourself within Zambia, Livingstone will serve as your HQ. The city is more sizable than Victoria Falls; however, in doing so, it loses a bit of its charm in comparison. Additionally, its 10 km (6 mi) away from the falls, so you lose the VIP ticket to the thunder and mist of Victoria Falls.
Hotel
Similar to Victoria Falls, Livingstone has incredible choices including the boutique Tongabezi and the luxurious The Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel by Anantara; however, if time is limited or your searching for value for money, you can’t beat Fawlty Towers. Located on the Livingstone Way road and in the center of town, this economical hotel checks all the boxes including clean, air conditioned and sizable rooms. There’s a sizeable pool, cool restaurant and even a bar. Everyone is super nice and is a fantastic choice.
Devil’s Pool
The most extreme, thrilling and beautiful natural infinity pool awaits you. Between the months of Aug and Jan, you can experience what must be one of the craziest pools in existence, Devil’s Pool. During the low water level season of the Zambezi River, an infinity pool is naturally created on the precipice of the 108 m (354 ft) waterfall. Your journey begins from the incredible Royal Livingstone Hotel (noted above), which borders the river. There are a total of five time slots available: 7:30-9:00, 9:00-10:30, 10:30-12:00, 12:30-15:15 and 15:30-17:30 and you can pre-book here. Tickets cost $105, per person. My recommendation is to either go with the first or last time slot, to ensure you have the best sunlight available. The 7:30 ensures you’ll have the golden sun on your face, while the 15:30 will have the sun behind you and to the side. The experience starts by slapping on a swimsuit and once you’ve entered the hotel, make your way to the meeting point next to the river. You’ll have a short boat trip, but right off the bat, you’ll see the beautiful mist and rainbow of the falls. Once you access the island, leave behind anything you don’t want to get wet. If you’re carrying a camera or mobile, make sure it’s placed in a waterproof bag. If your water ready, walk over to the falls and see the most stunning rainbow you’ve ever seen; it nearly forms an entire circle. The mist. The thunder. The ridiculous rainbow. It’s all unbelievable, and you haven’t even jumped into the pool yet. After the photo session is over, make your way over to the pool by crossing the river with the assistance of rope. Once you’ve arrived, you’ll take turns getting into the pool. Now, for the experience. First off, your body will be pumping loads of adrenaline and you’ll feel a mix of fear and excitement. While the experience is 100% safe, I’d be lying if I said I didn’t feel uneasy once you’ve enter into the pool, as the current feels as if you’ll go over the edge. However, within seconds, you’ll feel more and more comfortable and safe It’s simply one of the most incredible natural experiences you can have. Once the group is done, you’ll make your way back to the island, where you’ll have breakfast (for the 7:30-9:00 slot) and drinks. You’ll return back to the hotel where you’ll question did I really just do that, and you’ll smile, because you just did, and it was awesome.
The Elephant Cafe
Interacting with, feeding and touching African elephants is an opportunity not many have experienced. However, not far from Livingstone, you can have this once in a lifetime encounter within The Elephant Cafe. As a cafe, it offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and high tea; however, as an Elephant Cafe, it offers something more brilliant, an opportunity to experience these magnificent animals, face to face. I went for the High Tea ($135 for two people), and it’s what I can recommend. You’ll be collected from your hotel and brought to the outskirts of Livingstone. The later meal will allow you to be with these gentle giants during the golden hour, right before you retire under the tent to eat your meal to the soundtrack of occasional hippopotamus grunts. Back to the elephant experience, when you arrive, you’ll be assigned an elephant, and fortunately, I got Danny, a near 50 year old male bull who has the most impressive (and beautiful) tusks I’ve ever seen. The tusks must’ve measured about 1.5 m (5 ft) in length. Danny was rescued in his youth from the Mana Pools National Park, in the lower Zambezi Valley. There’s roughly 10 elephants of varying age, including a child of nine years. What impressed me the most about Danny though, wasn’t his ridiculous size nor beautiful tusks, no, it was simply how calm and gentle he was. At any point, he could have rocked me to get the food he enjoyed, but rather, he simply asked, ‘Thank you sir, may I have another?’ Yes Danny, you may. What an extraordinary and brilliant animal. What an experience.
The Royal Livingstone Express
Trains are simply one of the best forms of transportation, due to their quick and simple accessibility, extreme comfort and sensational views. The Royal Livingstone Express allows you to relive a time where steam trains were a common place, the 1920’s, and it does so in pure class. You’ll want to choose the Victoria Falls Bridge Run, to follow the track of the “from Cape to Cairo” dream. The train operates on Mon, Wed and Sat, and you’ll be collected from your hotel either at 16:00 or 16:30 and returned back at 21:00 or 21:30, respectively. The total cost for this brilliant train ride plus food and booze is $189, per person.
You’ll be picked up from your hotel and later board the train on the outskirts of Livingstone. Once you settle in and the ride starts, you’ll hear a fantastic speech provided by a native Zambian. The conversation is fascinating and enlightening, providing you with information on what Zambia has accomplished domestically and globally, and where the country plans to be in the future. Nearly the entire time, you’ll have your best friend, wine and beer, to accompany you along the way. However, interacting with the passengers is indeed the best part of the entire experience. Shortly after taking off, the train slowed nearly to a halt and the word was given, a small herd of wild elephants were grazing on the left. Out of control. You’ll be shifting from the lounge car to observation car, and finally settling down in the dining car. The menu at the time included a amuse bouche of corn chowder, a starter of beef carpaccio, a middle course of vegetable parcel with pimento, a main course of seared salmon with dill beurre blanc and kalembula and a desert of chocolate tart with salted caramel sauce accompanied with tea or coffee and peit four; all code for quite a fancy meal. The train will eventually reach the halfway point, on top of the Victoria Falls Bridge. Here you’re able to step outside and see the views from the bridge and additionally, visit the extremely cool locomotive before heading back. An elegant meal served on a beautiful steam train of the ‘20’s with animal sightings and a stop over the Victoria Falls Bridge. Unbelievable.
